Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 EX DC HSM Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras with APS-C Sensors
About this deal
I've seen enough great results of this lens on the internet, but I've tried 2 copies so far, which all had an unsharp/stretched/bad CA blur on one side of the image. Different sides with each one.
Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC HSM: Digital Photography Review Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC HSM: Digital Photography Review
In comparison the AF performance of the Tokina was really a problem, especially at 16mm and the Nikon didn't autofocus very well at 12mm. While we haven't tested it, the Tokina 10-17mm lens is a fisheye, in case you're not interested in rectilinear lenses. best super wideangle lens for cropped sensors, much better than tamron\tokina, has HSM suitable for Nikon D40\40X\60, great usability, nice EX look (as for me =) Two ELD (Extraordinary Low Dispersion) glass elements and one SLD (Special Low Dispersion) glass element provides excellent color correction of aberrations The optical formula features 14 elements in 10 groups, including three Super-low Dispersion glass elements for the minimization of chromatic aberrations, and three aspherical elements to reduce distortion and other aberrations. Users of Canon, Nikon, Sigma, and Four Thirds cameras benefit from an ultrasonic-type 'HyperSonic Motor' (HSM) for fast and silent autofocus, while the Pentax and Sony mount versions use the 'screw-drive' coupling from the camera body. The 'DC' designation indicates that this lens is designed for DSLRs with APS-C or smaller sensors, and isn't suitable for use on a full-frame body (the image circle isn't large enough, and vignetting will occur).
I bought this lens specifically over the Sigma 8-16 because I needed it to accept 80A filters and have a constant f3.5 aperture because I do a lot of both low light handheld and tripod night shooting. But if these two advantages are not important to you then the 8-16, being much sharper, is a better choice. I've noticed that despite the "non-slow" aperture rating, it will shoot faster than my 18-135 when shooting the wide shots - guess it's got more coverage and pulls in more light. Again, the physical size differences between these lenses are not significant - and all of these lenses have a very nice-to-use size. At 10mm, the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 exhibits a moderate amount of wave/mustache-type barrel distortion (hard to correct). Long story short, eventually I got myself a Tokina 12-24 instead but I still remember this one fondly. Unless you hit a bad sample (it's a Sigma after all) you'll have a lot of fun.
Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM - Digital Cameras, Digital Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM - Digital Cameras, Digital
The overall shape of this lens is smooth with slightly smaller ribs on the focus ring than on the zoom ring. Also, 10mm is simply REALLY INCREDIBLY wide! This is fantastic if you are in a tight place and want to have much of the space in the image (interior shots -- especially in realty or the sort). However, outside in larger space, this means you are losing detail of your subject simply from covering more area in the field of view.
In This Article
Focusing is fast, so quiet I can barely hear it, and the feel of it in the hands is really great. Heavy but worth it's weight. I have an excellent 15mm prime lens that is super sharp, small and light, but still bring the sigma on all my trips. Like my other Sigma, the 18-125 DC OS, the focus is fast and reliable, and I don't think I've gotten more than a couple of out of focus shots in the first week of ownership. The center is always quite sharp. This is my first EX quality lens, and I was surprised that after pretty careful analysis of tripod mounted test shots at all f-stops, there was almost no visible difference between f-stops anywhere in the frame after you get above f/5.0. The analysis on slrgear suggests that the lens works best at f/8, but I haven't seen that yet. It doesn't seem to be necessary, which is nice. The center is always very sharp and clear. 10mm is hugely wide, and as you'd expect kind of "bulgey". I'm not sure I need such extreme wide angle, but I will find out when I go to Italy and find myself in cramped medieval streets surrounded by potential photos.
Nikon 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 DX VR Review - Photography Life Nikon 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 DX VR Review - Photography Life
Just Arriving Used Gear at B&H: EOS R5, R5 C, RF 16, Sony a7C R, a7C II, FE 12-24, 16-35 II, 200-600, 135, 100-400, 70-200 F4 II, RRS Ascend-14 Long Integrated For some reason with this lens the focus is not super accurate on my 7D, but on the other hand you don't really need to focus at 10mm anyways especially if you're shooting at like F10. It makes me wonder why would Sigma create a constant f3.5 aperture lens if it is unusable at anything under f8? A bit over five years use and it looks new and performs new. Now on the GX10, K20D, and K-5 Pentax dSLRs. I still shoot with the K20D and K-5. The lens is holding up to the increased resolution with strong color, contrast and rewarding fine detail, its a sharp lens for sure. I do keep this lens in its pouch given in the box. This lens is still produced and sold by Sigma. The reason I am updating the review. And its selling for much less than what I paid. Its a compelling offering. This Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC lens is a steal. Perhaps there are UWA lens as sharp, or a bit sharper (pixel peeping) But at more cost! IMHO this lens is good enough at f/8 to make most photographers happy; including pros. Its build is solid, feels top notch, being a EX lens it should. The review by SLRgear says it all. First things first, compared to the F4, it has slightly less distortion at the widest end. Now I should qualify this a bit. The F4 had a unique distortion at the very edges. I would say that the distortion on the F3.5 is more gradual with to me is more desired rather than the abrupt distortion on the F4. This probably has something to do with the larger front element. I can't confirm this, but I might have to see if I can get a copy of DxO's testing software to determine what kind of distortion I'm seeing in my photos compared to my F4 versions. If I was to guess, I would say about half or less the amount of distortion.However, I had no idea the amount of work involved in avoiding distortion when at the wide side of this lens (10mm)... you must be careful not to pitch up or down the camera from the subject or you will get massive image distortion! This can be played to your advantage but it can also be simply annoying too. Also close up, objects take on a slight to moderate fisheye effect almost. To really get this effect though, the lens would have to be able to focus even closer than it can.